The role of serpin b3
Serpin b3 was discovered some years ago as a cause of skin damage known as “parakeratosis” (abnormal keratization). More recent research carried out by Shiseido also found that serpin b3 is a factor of skin ageing. “An increase in serpin b3 not only damages the surface and stratum corneum of the skin, but also propagates and amplifies the damage to the whole epidermis, and furthermore it propagates damage to the basement membrane and dermis, and accelerates skin ageing,” explains the cosmetics giant.
According to Shiseido, an increase in serpin b3 in the epidermis obstructs the self-defense system that prompts cells to eliminate themselves when they accumulate irreparable damage. These damaged epidermal cells thus accumulate into the skin and accelerate its ageing. Furthermore, their negative effects can raise the levels of serpin b3 in their vicinity and trigger a vicious circle of damage propagation. Actually, Shiseido’s research showed that an increase in serpin has negative effects on the whole skin.
New skincare developments
In order to block the negative effects of serpin b3, Shiseido tested an amino acid derivative known to be effective to control the production of the protein. According to the company, the continuous use of high concentrations of 1-piperidine propionic (1PP) acid, proved extremely effective in inhibiting the production of serpin b3 and in rejuvenating damaged skin.
In the future, the 1PP acid is expected to be the based of new generations of anti-aging skin care products. Indeed, Shiseido wants to apply the results of its research to develop products that will nurture the skin and make it smooth, younger with more firmness and elasticity.