With a diversified conference program and 150 exhibitors showcasing their latest innovations in skincare and makeup, this year’s edition of MakeUp in New York offered a comprehensive landscape of current beauty market trends reshaping the sector.

Staying true to the event’s core identity, formulation represented the majority of exhibitors. The category also hosted new comers such as Bayport Laboratories, Capsum, Beyond Cosmetics, and Colep Consumer. Complementing the leaders in formulation were packaging and accessories specialists.

53 of them participated in this 9th edition of the 2024 Innovations & Trends contest (IT Awards) by presenting a total of 108 makeup and skincare products, including 7 in the Accessories category, 56 in the Formulation category, 22 in the Full Service category, and 23 in the Packaging category.

This year, the jury selected three winners:

The Formulation/Ingredients award went to Japanese makeup manufacturer Toa Inc. for its Touch-Up Powder Cream, a hybrid natural cream-powder texture. Formulated with natural ingredients, its combine the benefits of a makeup powder and a skin care cream, offering non- sticky application and a refreshing finish without a greasy effect. Very soft on application, it provides an intense sensation of freshness.

California-based Weckerle USA scooped the prize in the Full Service category for its Wood Be Good Palette. The wooden palette fills directly, eliminating the need for plastic or metallic cups. Multifunctional, it includes a variety of textures for complete make- up: marble blush, watercolor eyeliners, highlighters and eyeshadows. Formulas are talc-free, vegan and cruelty-free. “A very interesting concept in terms of eco-design of container and contents, subject to wood processing,” commented makeup expert and member of the jury Aïmara Coupet.

Italian cosmetics packaging specialist Essentia Beauty took home the award in the Packaging category for its New Age Palette collection, a range of mono-material and refillable palettes with two interior compartments decorated with the company’s exclusive 3D Metamorphosis printing technology. In addition, a removable lid allows for renewing desirability by changing the decoration at will.

Desirability and personalization being essential to the success of refillable packaging, several decoration possibilities are available. Thanks to innovative combined techniques offering three-dimensional effects and special finishes and textures, the packaging transforms into an object of desire,” said member of the jury and expert in product development and packaging sourcing Daniel Saclier.

In the Accessories category, there was no winner awarded but three finalists were voted by the jury: the Detachable Brush - No Glue Design by Beauty Yaurient Cosmetics Accessories Co. Ltd; the Antibacterial & Quick Drying Bamboo Brush, by Hedi Present Incorporated; and Botanichictm Kabuki Brush & Pouch, by HNB Corporation.

The winners present a perfect balance of what makes a highly desirable cosmetic product today, focusing on all key aspects: flexible, hybrid, transformative, sensory, infused with intense care, and sustainable. These winners are part of a new generation of ideal products that blur the boundaries of use and application, offering more benefits, pleasure, and ease of use for new types of immersive yet practical and effective experiences. I have never been so captivated than this year by the consumer-centric approaches, which include amazing sensory textures, user-friendly designs, and ease of use. I would therefore conclude that we are not only heading towards the ’quiet luxury’ trend but that exhibitors are also witnessing the emergence of what I would call the ’quiet desire’ trend this year,” concluded jury member and Founder of Asia Cosme Lab, Florence Bernardin.