Coachella Spirit
The trend is towards the vintage, post-hippie Coachella spirit [1] and mixes the “bali” and Bohemian styles coming straight from the West coast. The hints to this Bohemian spirit and great Californian festival are reflected in bold, feminine facets, as could be seen with the “Flower Power” references in the Tommy Hilfiger 2015 Spring/Summer Collection: a flowerbed, bright and festive colours, and a guitar as an accessory. Cheeks and bodies sported stars drawn with an eyeliner pencil as if to symbolize the “cool attitude” of the West coast and remind of the taboos of the 70s. The “hippie” inspiration resulted in tye & dye tops with Jeremy Scott, and Anna Sui made a “cosmic girl” step onto the catwalk with golden stars around her eyes.
This style resonates with the Boho-Chic spirit currently popular among brands like Anthropologie or Urban Outfitters.
As a matter of fact, Anthropologie now sells beauty products, and in particular vintage-styled perfumes featured in cases bearing floral drawings (see Royal Apothic). H&M will also present its own capsule collection designed in collaboration with Coachella in March 2015.
Byredo has launched a Gypsy perfume, and Marijuana hints can be found in hemp-based shampoos – with the Hemp Hydrating Shampoo. As for makeup, looks are natural, but eyes are still emphasized – the lower part of the eyes attracts all the attention and is prepared with primer. Some makeup artists recommend falling asleep with makeup on for a “smudgy” look in the morning. And colours mingle with naturally messed up, Bohemian plaits in the hair.
American Mood
While consumption patterns have been challenged in the USA, purchases are now meant to be more humane and committed. Relationships with others are changing, and the “community” spirit makes perfect sense in a country where difficulties are still lingering in people’s minds. There is a new closeness which has reinforced the local trend, but also the wave of micro-communities, which the web contributed to develop, and of more humane communities of interest and exchange. As an example, supermarket chain Trader Joe’s, which is positioned as a local grocer’s, highlights a style that reminds of that of former American grocery stores. As for beauty, the Jane Beauty brand has come back with Ulta and now offers a vision of beauty that is both simple and social. This community-brand hosts various events and proposes special offers for women in need. “Jane’s friends”, real women willing to change the world, are portrayed on the brand’s packaging.
American brands take advantage of this revival of national pride and have started asserting the Made in America value.
As an example, Clinique marked its 2014 campaign for the Eve Better Makeup SPF 15 range with the “Shades of America”. By doing so, the company both emphasized the patriotic beauty concept, the new American-style “reason why”, and its large palette of shades reflecting the multiplicity of skin shades in America. And the eco-responsible W3LL brand did the same with its slogan, “American the Beautiful – Proudly made in America”.
Vintage Glam
This new hymn to roots, cultural heritage, and nostalgia has created a world reminiscent of the “Glamour” Years, the “Hollywood Golden Age” (from the 20s to the 60s), the period of stars, glitz and glamour in beauty.
Looks are impeccable on all levels: a perfect, radiant complexion, perfectly managed eyebrows, XXL lashes (Tarte – Best in Faux – a three-step mascara featuring nylon fibres to make them thicker and create a false-eyelash effect). And the scarlet look made a great comeback at the Spring/Summer 2015 Fashion Week, as Caroline Herrera and Zac Posen chose to coordinate it on lips and nails.
Makeup follows this more glamorous trend with products established as “jewel” objects that easily slip into a bag. Rich and creamy lipsticks are back and packed in jewel cases. Lipstick Queen, the niche brand specialized in lipsticks, has designed a more glamorous collection, Private Party – Velvet Rope, with a hint to the Hollywood Golden Age lipsticks.
Silver or gold are also used as ornaments for a total gold manicure or as nail art to decorate naked nails or nails adorned with golden touches.