As far as exports are concerned, France remains a champion in the global cosmetics market, but its domestic market is not exactly a success! According to NielsenIQ, the global beauty market grew by 7.3% in 2024 compared to the previous year, and by 7.7% in Western Europe. In contrast, sales in France were up 3% in value, to EUR 9 billion, and down 2% in volume, according to Circana data.
Sales in large grocery retail chains are struggling, with declines of 4% in both value and volume. Meanwhile, selective distribution maintains value growth (+4%) despite a slight drop in volume (-1%). Pharmacies, however, continue to thrive, posting a 10% increase in value and 7% in volume, making them the most dynamic channel in the French market.
Accelerated restructuring in the mass market
"Despite a deflationary trend, with a 2.2% price drop in the personal care and beauty department, sales volumes continued to decline in large grocery retailers," explains Valérie Locci, Key Account Manager Health and Beauty at Circana.
In large grocery retail chains, consumer purchases remain constrained by food prices, which have risen by 20% over the past three years.
The challenges also stem from the French mass-market model itself. Consumers in France are prioritizing convenience and reducing car travel, increasingly turning to e-commerce and convenience stores, which continue to gain market share.
Valérie Locci also points to the lack of innovation: the contribution of new products to sales in the personal care and beauty department has halved in five years.
In the mass segment, supermarkets are under pressure both from the dynamism of single-brand players such as Adopt, Aroma-Zone, Rituals, Nyx, and even Typology, whose revenue increased by 8.6% in 2024, and from the rise of clearance chain retailers (Action, Normal, Stockomani, Noz), which posted a 49% increase in sales across all products over the 2019-2023 period.
A slow-moving prestige market fuelled by makeup innovation
When it comes to prestige beauty sales, France (+4%) lags behind as the slowest-growing market in Western Europe, where the average growth stands at 8% (+5% in Germany, +10% in Italy, +11% in Spain and the UK). After three years of steady growth, sales in France lost momentum in the second half of 2024, capped by a disappointing holiday season.
In this channel, sales of makeup (+9% in value, +3% in units sold) and hair care (+23% in value and +14% in units) drove growth in 2024, according to Mathilde Lion, Executive Director, Global Client Development at Circana. The slowdown is notable for perfumes (+2% in value, -3% in units) and even more so for skincare (+1% in value, -7% in units).
However, some segments are performing well. This is the case for facial care, where premium products (sold for over EUR 100) and even more so for ultra-premium products (over EUR 300) continue to grow. However, products sold for less than EUR 20, which represent approximately two-thirds of sales, are driving volumes downward.
In makeup, four sub-segments (fixers, liquid blushes, lip balms and oils, and concealers) generated 60% of the market growth in 2024, while more traditional products (lipsticks, mascaras) are struggling. Concealer has thus become the third largest segment in terms of value in the makeup category, ahead of lipstick.
In the fragrance market, the shift toward high-end products continues, with sales of niche fragrances and private collections priced over EUR 175 surging by 36% in value. The skinification trend is also gaining momentum, driving a 145% increase in scented mist sales and a 71% rise in scented oils.
"The outlook for 2025 shows a risk of declining consumption in the prestige channel, but growth opportunities remain. Beauty is a high-performing market, intrinsically linked to consumers’ focus on well-being. Makeup should continue its momentum, but perfume and skincare will certainly be more challenged this year and will need to stand out," highlights Mathilde Lion.
Pharmacy channel: ultra-dynamic but demanding
Since the end of the pandemic, cosmetics sales in French pharmacies have regained momentum after years of stagnation. "Following a period of consolidation that led to a decline in the number of small, unprofitable pharmacies, the sector is now evolving. Pharmacies are expanding their services and attracting consumers looking for expert advice, convenience, and high-quality products," explains Nicolas Grelaud, Managing Director at OpenHealth Company.
Sales in the hygiene and beauty segment in pharmacies reached EUR 2.52 billion in 2024, representing an increase of 9% in value and 4.9% in volume (+10% in value and +7% in volume for the beauty segment alone, which represents two-thirds of the total). In this channel, the offering is expanding and the average basket is increasing. However, competition remains fierce, with high demand but limited success—just 10% of products generate 80% of total sales.
"La Rosée’s success—now among the top five pharmacy brands—stems from its concise and effective product range, perfectly aligned with the realities of pharmacy retail. Pharmacists value brands that follow the principle of one need, one product," emphasizes Nicolas Grelaud.
Also worth noting is the strong potential of nutricosmetics in pharmacies. With sales currently estimated at EUR 9 billion worldwide, which are expected to double in the coming years.
Online sales are reshaping the market
Finally, it’s worth noting that beauty retail is also undergoing a revolution in France, given the rise of digital players. As in other countries, Amazon is gaining market share, and TikTok Shop, which has just launched in France, should confirm its ability to generate impulse purchases.
In France, Amazon Beauty receives 40 million unique visitors per month and is increasingly establishing itself as a loyalty channel, with 42% repeat buyers.
"Our ambition is to become the preferred destination for quick and easy purchases of everyday products, and to complete our assortment and enrich the consumer experience for premium product purchases," says Mathieu Badin, Industry Leader for Beauty & Pharma at Amazon France.
To build credibility in this segment in Europe, the retailer opened a hair and beauty salon (Amazon Salon) in Spitafields Market, London, and a parapharmacy in the Cadorna district of Milan.
