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Markets & trends

Pro ageing: “Let me be me!”

Although the vocabulary has some difficulty to evolve, cosmetics is gradually leaving the era of anti-aging behind. Today, a majority of women over 60 are more in the mood for a well ageing, slow aging or pro aging approach... In short, it is all about supporting the aging process rather than fighting the signs of aging, with skincare products supporting a ’pro-longevity’, life enhancers.

What mature women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure, sensoriality but with new and smart products. Photo: © wavebreakmedia / shutterstock.com

What mature women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure, sensoriality but with new and smart products. Photo: © wavebreakmedia / shutterstock.com

Apart from some interventionists, a minority of consumers looking for immediate results provided by aesthetic medicine or surgery, the out-and-out youth-cultivating era is over. Most women choose this beautification attitude and look for natural alternatives.

The first positive consequence of this acceptance can be seen in the rehabilitation of some signs of ageing such as bright wrinkles or silver / white hair. Worn by the journalist Sophie Fontanel, assumed white hair is trendy and currently making the buzz on Instagram. New muses are making the headlines like May Musk, mother of the founder of Tesla, who at 69 was walking down the runways during the New York Fashion Week and posed for Covergirl. Not to speak of models like the popular Iris Apfel with her asserted bold free and unique style, despite her 96 years of age.

Another finding, the taboos of illness and menopause are becoming more and more conspicuous. The Même Cosmetics brand, dedicated to women affected by cancer, was recently approached by Laboratoires Pierre Fabre. In the United States, Hynt products boast a carcinoma free criterion, with no endocrine disruptors.

No doubt, the age revolution has arrived

According to the 2015 Deloitte Ifop barometer, 75% of French people would be interested in a coaching proposed by their health insurance and dedicated to well-ageing. Today our perception of seniors is different. It is at the age of 68 that, with no particular reason, the feeling of being a senior takes hold of us, but the paradox is that we always see ourselves younger than we are and this feeling increases with age.

Recently, the media coverage on Brigitte Macron, the wife of the French President, has stirred things up, and will possibly change the way we look at women this age.

Finally, if the cult of appearance is still very present in the media, we are moving towards the notion of ‘age to enhance’, what Americans call life enhancing.

A more adapted cosmetic offer 

The representation of women in cosmetics is also changing. There are also more products proposed for women over 50 or even over 60. Asserted products and described as such.

The Japanese brands were the first to offer products specifically dedicated to women aged 60+, L’Oréal also focused on the subject. Today, Lisa Eldridge, Lancôme makeup artist successfully enhances mature skins in her Youtube makeup tutorials. The site Look Fabulous Forever, which fights against the dictates of age, will roll out its make up brand in 24 countries.

Things are changing with more adapted claims coming from brands.

The influence of Millennials

There is an intergenerational influence. Juniors, which are always show-offing on the Internet are whetting the appetite of the older generations. Beauty then becomes more integrative, it will globalize well-being, the silhouette, the lifestyle, our sleep or relaxing practices... resulting in a freer feminine look expecting new codes and expressions. Aging women no longer want to epitomize a set beauty, like Linda Rodin creator of Olio Lusso, described as the chic emblem of aging well.

Women are aware that they have wrinkles and that these won’t go away, and like Millennials, they do not want any more over-promises. “No bullshit marketing!” They are going to take action to preserve their tonicity, elegance, silhouette. The silhouette is more important than facial features; attention is focused on nutrition, a regular activity, slenderness. Mobility and tonicity prevail.

Ageing gracefully

In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what mature women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure, sensoriality but with new and smart products.

For this reason, we can anticipate a true coming back of cosmetics targeting this population. After targeting Millennials, brands will now focus on the 60+ again. First because they have a real purchasing power but also and mostly because sensoriality and lucidity are also areas to develop for them.

Cosmetic ingredients 2018

More information on this occasion, the “ageing well” and “pro age” trends that are shaking the beauty industryas well as corresponding ingredients solutions is available in the special issue on Cosmetic Ingredients published by Premium Beauty News on the occasion of the in-cosmetics Global show taking place at RAI Amsterdam from 17-19 April 2018.

Contents: “Ageing well”: A new strategic target for cosmetics - Trends: The pro-aging revolution - Interview: “The genetic identity card of well-ageing”, David Boudie, Silab - New ingredients

Check the special issue here.

Pascale Brousse, Kristel Milet

© 2018 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
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