The latest edition of the in-cosmetics show in Hamburg put "green" cosmetic ingredients under the spotlights, including products obtained from environmental-friendly extraction methods, ingredients derived from renewable resources, or obtained from biotech processes providing an alternative to oil-based chemistry. For Greentech, a French supplier of cosmetic actives derived from plants, algae, micro-algae and biotechnologies, the event was an opportunity to showcase its extensive know-how in this field.
New ingredient categories
The company, headquartered close to Clermont-Ferrand, in the centre of France, thus presented two new classes of ingredients obtained by biotechnologies:
– The Ferment’actives developed using a customized and controlled fermentation process to naturally enhance functionality, increase efficacy and develop new activities.
– A new variety of soft butters, the GTB series that have auto-emulsion capacities and higher feel sensory.
The Ferment’Actives are active ingredients stem from an original process in cosmetic area: the fermentation. Actually, Greentech intends to increase developments thanks to the use of biotechnologies. “This process of fermentation increases the concentration of active molecules, maximises the biological activity and/or creates new biological activities,” explains the company.
Greentech already offers three Ferment’Actives:
– Protection Ferment’Active Goji, where polyphenol protective compounds are three times higher than a simple goji extract.
– Brightening Ferment’Active Raspberry, highly concentrated in lactic acid (38 times higher than a simple raspberry extract, according to Greentech) for a "shining " activity on skin and hair.
– Anti-ageing Ferment’Active Pomegranate, wih an antioxidant power boosted by a factor of 1.5.
The GreenSofts represent a second generation of Soft Butters. They are 3-in-1 actives that can be used as: self-emulsifiers, lipidic compounds for oily phase (and can constitute up to 100%) and boosters of biological activity. “They give a soft silky touch and a very nice texture to formulations,” says Greentech.
To date, there are seven GreenSofts offering the biological activities of traditional vegetable oils. However, three of them have been tested on volunteers:
– GreenSoft 336 Camelina, provides a strong improvement in the immediate skin moisturization (62%) and particularly after 8h (+24%),
– GreenSoft 251 Inca Inchi allows a 66% increase in skin flexibility (at a concentration of 5%) and 90% of volunteers felt a repairing effect on the hair after a single use (in a conditioner and a concentration at 2%),
– GreenSoft® 461 Camellia brings strong improvement and maintain in skin moisturization after 24h (+24%).
Greentech adds that new GreenSofts can be created on request.
Fighting body odours
In the range Probiophytes, also obtained by biotechnologies, Greentech has presented Probiophyte Fresh, a new active to counteract body odours (foot, axilla) by inhibiting bacteria that cause odours while preserving commensal bacteria that are necessary for the skin to protect against external attacks.
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Babassu and apricot oils
Finally, Greentech has presented new in vivo tests on hair and nails on two of the company’s oils:
– Babassu oil, which has smoothing and styling effects on hair and also provides repairing and smoothing effects on nails.
– Apricot oil, which has coating and protective effects on hair fibber.
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Contents: – Trends: Always greener ! – Organic, sustainable or Fair Trade. Which certification best suits cosmetic ingredients? – Interview: Patrice André, ethnobotanist |