Alban Muller International, a French specialist of plant-based cosmetic ingredients and formulations, showcased its two new ingredients at the last In-Cosmetics tradeshow in Paris: Repulpami ER, an anti-ageing active based on the combination of of two Senegalese plants and Amiox ER, an eco-designed antioxidant complying with the Cosmos standard. The company also highlighted Amiderm ER, its solution to maintain the pH of the skin that was initially launched in January 2013 at Cosmetagora.

A global anti-ageing active

Developed by bringing together White Hibiscus (bissap) and Baobab from the Tambacounda and Louga regions (Senegal), Repulpami ER [1] targets the factors responsible for the visible signs of skin ageing.

According to Alban Muller, Repulpami ER acts by a combination of actions: an anti-wrinkle action achieved by reducing face muscle contractions, a plumping action by inhibiting lipolysis and stimulating adipogenesis, and a firming action by stimulating the expression of the genes coding for the proteins responsible for tight-junctions and thus, for the strength and tone of the skin. “Repulpami is the ideal active for global anti-ageing face care products, mature skin care products, anti-wrinkle, resurfacing, firming, plumping products, bust, neck and décolleté care products, firming products for the arms,” claims the company.

Natural antioxidant

Alban Muller also offers a new natural antioxidant made from rosemary oleoresin on a sunflower oil base. Amiox [2] is an alternative to conventional antioxidants that protects the oil phases of cosmetics from oxidation. Its efficacy was assessed through a RANCIMAT test and a monitoring of the peroxide value conducted over two months.

Amiox ER is rich in active principles, resulting from a rigorous agronomic selection. It is titrated in carnosic acid and carnosol, molecules with recognized antioxidant properties. The extraction is made with plant-based ethanol allowing Amiox ER to comply with the Cosmos standard.

Skin pH protection

Eventually, Amiderm ER [3], which was previously showcased during Cosmetagora, completes the list of Alban Muller’s innovations.

Amiderm ER offers an anti-urease activity which prevents the degradation of urea in ammonia in case of perspiration. Its efficacy stands on the specificity of a witch hazel tannin. Amiderm ER thus enables stabilising the skin pH and maintains its natural protection avoiding irritation and unpleasant smell production. “Amiderm ER mode of action makes it the essential ingredient in all situations when skin is stressed by an increase in pH: particularly sensitive and wet areas of the body, babies’ bottom, normal and excessive perspiration,“ claims Alban Muller.