Less sophistication in the USA

When asked about their main expectations regarding a skincare product, US consumers massively opt for moisturization.

"The US market appears less sophisticated compared to France or even China where specific treatments appear much demanded by consumers. In China, in particular, specific treatments are boosted by the success of stain removers and lightening products," said Philippe Jourdan, the founder and CEO of Promise Consulting Inc.

Country of origin matters

Being an American brand is a definite asset in the US market, as local brands record higher scores on all criteria: brand value, awareness and market share.

In France too, domestic brands record higher scores than foreign brands.

Being a skincare specialist is a plus

The brand DNA is another important factor of success in the skincare market. Both in France and in the USA, skincare specialists (Clinique, Clarins) dominate the market. However, luxury brand Lancôme performs well on both sides of the Atlantic. As far as China is concern, luxury remains the most important factor of success, with Chanel, Estee Lauder Shiseido forming the top three.

"In the US market the importance of being a specialist is mainly based on two criteria: the awareness and image. In France, being a beauty specialist is also a plus in terms of awareness, but this is less true in terms of image. The advantage of specialization is therefore more fragile in France," highlights Philippe Jourdan.

Consumers expectations

In the eye of consumers, the most important features are: texture, high quality and efficiency / value for rice are the key assets for skincare products.

However, one can note the importance of femininity in China. In France, the importance of good value for price is emerging as an important asset. "French women want efficiency, but not at any price," explains Philippe Jourdan.

Eventually, while the investment in branding appears highly correlated with market share in the US, this is less true in France where expert brands post good performances in terms of sales but show lower scores in terms of image.