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Torsten Clarius

Replexium™ - Rapid improvement in visible signs of skin aging

With life expectancy increasing, the global market for skincare products that contribute to a youthful, vibrant appearance is growing dynamically. It comes as no surprise that fast-acting anti-aging actives are in great demand, yet breakthroughs have remained few and far between. Now BASF has achieved a new milestone with Replexium™, a peptide blend that visibly reduces wrinkles within just three weeks.

A recent consumer study conducted by BASF confirmed the strong and growing demand for skincare products that help slow down the visible aging process. The survey of 235 women between the ages of 40 and 73 revealed that 60 percent wish to look five to 10 years younger and an overwhelming 80 percent expect a high-quality anti-aging product to enable them to achieve this aspiration.

The fact that populations are not only aging, but also retaining more disposable wealth in many regions further highlights the market potential of premium skincare products. To help their customers meet the high expectations of today’s sophisticated consumers, BASF launched a product development project focusing on peptides.

A 3-level approach

BASF’s experts began exploring peptide combinations that would address the skin components involved in the most visible effects of aging. This meant finding a way to target the epidermis and dermis as well as the membrane that joins them, the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) zone. This three-level approach promised rapid and lasting anti-aging effects.

Two of BASF’s patented tetrapeptides, very small molecules that can achieve a high level of efficacy in low dosages, were chosen as actives and combined with substances that enhance bio-availability.

Innovative lab methods

During the initial lab test phase, the research team employed 3D printing to create skin models and examine the efficacy of the compound. This innovative methodology, termed laser assisted bioprinting, uses skin cells to generate a working model of the human skin. It enables swift and realistic testing before proceeding to the in-vivo phase. Here, the new complex led to a significantly denser collagen network than the control blend, a typical peptide combination available on the market. This enhanced density was demonstrated using second harmonic generation, a highly precise optical process involving laser technology. Put simply, photons emitted by lasers behave differently as they interact with different materials. These differences create an image, in this case, of the collagen fibers in the 3D-printed skin specimens (see figure 1).

Figure 1: Visualization by second harmonic generation (SHG) during in-vitro research. The collagen fibers, which appear in grey, are significantly denser in the specimen using the BASF product (on the right) than in the control specimen (left). — Click on the image to enlarge.

Figure 1: Visualization by second harmonic generation (SHG) during in-vitro research. The collagen fibers, which appear in grey, are significantly denser in the specimen using the BASF product (on the right) than in the control specimen (left). — Click on the image to enlarge.

The in-vitro studies demonstrated the capacity of the new peptide blend to increase the synthesis of dermal and epidermal molecules termed proteoglycans, which support cell-to-cell interactions (lumican and syndecan-1) and collagen types I and XVII.

It was shown to work on various layers of the skin, as intended, by targeting specific components that support the skin’s biomechanical properties. These self-rejuvenating skin functions typically decrease with age, causing wrinkles to appear.

In-vivo testing confirmed lab findings

In-vivo studies further confirmed the efficacy of the skin-bioavailable synergistic complex. In female volunteers aged 45 to 65, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles was reduced by up to 11 percent after three weeks, and as much as 23 percent after eight weeks. The women experienced a decrease in three types of facial wrinkles: visible “crow’s feet,” forehead wrinkles and “smile lines” or nasolabial folds were all significantly reduced (see figure 2). Dermal density was also improved, by 21 percent within three weeks. This increase in firmness of the skin, measured ultrasonically, reflects an anti-aging effect that could be compared to turning back the clock by as much as seven years.

Figure 2: Compare the facial wrinkles before (left) application of the Replexium™ cream and after (right). In just 21 days, forehead wrinkles and wrinkles around the eyes were visibly reduced by 11% and 23% after 56 days. Within the same two intervals, nasolabial folds were reduced by 9% and 19%, respectively. — Click on the image to enlarge.

Figure 2: Compare the facial wrinkles before (left) application of the Replexium™ cream and after (right). In just 21 days, forehead wrinkles and wrinkles around the eyes were visibly reduced by 11% and 23% after 56 days. Within the same two intervals, nasolabial folds were reduced by 9% and 19%, respectively. — Click on the image to enlarge.

These findings indicate that Replexium™ can make an important contribution in the area of premium derma-cosmetic anti-aging products. Above all, its capacity to achieve fast results is predestined to appeal to consumers.

© 2018 - Premium Beauty News - www.premiumbeautynews.com
about Torsten Clarius
Torsten Clarius

Torsten Clarius studied in Würzburg, Germany, and holds a PhD in chemistry. He began collecting chemical industry experience in 1996 and Erbsloeh in Krefeld.

In 2000, he joined Cognis, and built up the business of the “Laboratoires Sérobiologiques” portfolio in North and East Europe. Following the acquisition of Cognis by BASF in 2012, the entire cosmetic active ingredient business was consolidated under the roof of BASF Care Creations™.

Since October 2015, Dr. Clarius has been responsible for overseeing the operational marketing of active ingredients along with several other product groups in across Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA).

Web: www.carecreations.basf.com

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