The prestige beauty channel in France returned to growth in H1 2015, increasing by 0.7 per cent in value. According to The NPD Group, this revival is based on a return to growth of the perfume and makeup categories, and mostly on a pretty rebound of the skincare segment (21 per cent of the beauty market) which contributes to more than half to the growth of the channel. "With a growth of 1.9 per cent in value at the end of June 2015, the prestige skincare segment is driven by the rise of light textures such as serums and oils, the success of which is expected to continue over the second half of the year," says the market research firm.

The success of serums...

In a category dominated by skin creams, serums (the second segment of skincare by size) drive both short-term (+14 per cent in value in H1 2015) and long-term growth (+22 per cent vs 1st half 2011). They account for three-quarters of the growth of the skin care category without cannibalizing skin creams that remained flat after two years of decline.

"While more basic categories are in competition with other distribution channels, serums, which boast higher actives concentrations and benefit from the strong technological advances made by Prestige brands, are increasingly preferred by consumers. Lightness, ease of application and immediate effect are real assets to seduce French female consumers," explains Mathilde Lion, Expert Beauty Europe at The NPD Group.

... and beauty oils

Like serums, oils are gaining momentum in the selective channel with a 44 per cent growth in the first half and sales exploding, especially within the anti-age segment. Because it is highly sensorial and particularly easy to apply, this category is conquering all skin care segments, from face to body care, including anti-aging, moisturizing, and sun care products.

The success of dry and light formulas launched in pharmacies in recent years, has opened the way to a new generation of prestige products. Furthermore, the trend is driven by the search for naturalness, since oils are mainly composed of natural ingredients.

"Light textures are on the rise and this trend is a long term perspective with the arrival on the market of hybrid products combining the naturalness of oil and the technicality of the serums. ‘Oil serums’ for instance combine the nourishing power of oils and the freshness of serums. Fall 2015 should confirm this trend with the launch of innovations such as oil-in-gels or balms-in-oil,” concludes Mathilde Lion.