For those who visited the In-Cosmetics trade show, which was held from March 29 to 31 in Milan, Italy, there is little doubt that sustainability is riding high on the cosmetics industry agenda at the moment.

Sustainability Gallery

Actually, visitors to this year’s In-Cosmetics were being offered the opportunity to find out focuses and showcases on sustainable cosmetic ingredients and the sustainable sourcing of raw materials. A “Sustainability Gallery” sponsored by Beraca, was promoting some of the industry’s most sustainable initiatives and was featuring a selection of companies with a green story to tell.

Explaining how the companies participating in this gallery were selected, Cathy Laporte, In-Cosmetics group marketing manager, said “there are companies who have a sustainability policy just because they think they should. Then there are companies for whom green practices are the cornerstone of their business.” Among them were:

 Active Organics, a company focused on environmentally compatible harvesting, manufacturing and distribution of innovative natural products.

 Arizona Chemicals, the world’s largest bio-refiner of pine tree extracts. The line of 97% bio-renewable polymers - Sylvaclear and Uniclear - offer broad functionality as film formers, water-repellency agents, polymeric emulsion stabilisers, structuring agents, rheology modifiers, pigment stabilisers and actives delivery systems in the personal care industry.

 Dr Straetmans Chemische Produkte, which was presenting its Dermofeel GSC palm oil fre, an economic emulsifier that protects biodiversity by using locally sourced rapeseed oil, thereby reducing unnecessary transportation.

Also taking part in the Sustainability Gallery were: AzkoNobel, Arch Personal Care, Gattefossé, GreenPalm, Honeywell International,Laboratoires Expanscience, Lipotec, Biointec, and Oleon.

Açaí sustainable journey

Beraca, the Brazilian-based supplier of organic and natural active ingredients, was the official sponsor of the In-Focus feature at In-Cosmetics 2011. On this occasion, the company, which recently became a member of the Union for Ethical Bio Trade, partnered with L’Oréal-owned brand Kiehl’s to present a tunnel-shaped stand named “Beraca Experience”. The company was featuring the ethical and sustainable sourcing of acai, one of its most famous ingredients, which is used by Kiehl’s as a super-antioxidant and skin damage repair in a skincare collection.

Each stage of the açai supply chain is traceable and sustainable,” said Filipe Sabará, Business Director at Beraca. “Environmental preservation, corporate social responsibility, and sustainable sourcing of ingredients are the philosophies that have guided Beraca’s practices since its inception,” he added.

Alternative preservation

Among the multiple green ingredients showcased at In-Cosmetics, alternative preservatives were particularly highlighted. These substances are useful to replace ingredients with bad press, such as parabens and are also adapted to would-be “preservative-free” or “self-preserving” formulas. While not being listed as a preservative in the European regulation, they may have a secondary function that helps to extend the longevity of a cosmetic product and prohibit the growth of harmful bacteria.

The US-headquartered Inolex Chemical Company, for instance, presented six paraben-free substances based on a mix of caprylhydroxamic acid (CHA) and a secondary ingredients. Each of the substances was designed to address the specific requirements of various formulations types.